by Mitchell Murdock:
Paint scraper in one hand and knife in the other, we dived through the water and quickly spotted our target: prickly, black sea urchins. We carefully pried the animals from the rocks and transferred them to shore. Then we sliced them open, sprinkled them with lemon juice, and feasted.
Hunting for sea urchins is not exactly legal; also, raw sea urchins are not exceptionally appetizing. But in Riva Trigoso, who cares? Like most of Italy, the law isn’t that closely observed in this vacation town outside Genoa. Traffic tickets arrive four years late and illegal vending is a part of everyday life. An Italian woman told me that the government is little more than a political show.
But Riva Trigoso is also something like a paradise. Beach bardillios are available for private umbrella service and covered bar — shade is welcome in the afternoon. The shoreline is full of activity: people rolling in the waves, diving off sea rocks, and exploring in small kayaks. Most people are weekend vacationers, as weekday residents are mostly children and their grandparents. For now, I’m happy to be one of the visitors.
